Three Men (Stuck) in a Boat

This summer, the 3 Men - Griff Rhys-Jones, Rory McGrath and Dara O'Briain, headed to the Hebrides for another adventure afloat.  On this voyage, they used the 16th century travels of dictionary writer Dr Johnson and his biographer James Boswell as their inspiration. 
 

Having taken part in  West Highland Week, racing from Crinan to Oban onboard "Truant", the 3 Men headed north. 


We captured part of their exploits on film while they were aboard the 1904 Bristol Pilot Cutter, Mascotte, having entangled themselves in a lobster pot as they were leaving Tobermory harbour. 

London International Boat Show 2011

Visit us between 7th and 11th January 2011 at the London International Boat Show at Excel London.

We'll be on the Sail Scotland stand ready to answer all your questions and to have a wee blether about sailing  on the West Coast of Scotland.

Winter 2010 in Banavie

A still November day on the Caledonian Canal

Icy decks

First snowfall on Ben Nevis

Banavie pontoon berth

....and then it got really cold.........

Winter Wonderland 23 December 2010

One man and his boat

A quiet day on the Caley Canal

Corran Ferry

Caley Canal here we come

As the 2010 season closed Moonshadow enjoyed her final sail as she headed up Loch Linnhe in glorious sunshine to her winter berth at Banavie in the Caledonian Canal.  


The delivery crew enjoyed some superb sailing before the weather finally broke to give us some typical Highland weather for the climb up Neptune's Staircase.


 










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Skye, Raasay and the Small Isles

Following a lively sail round Ardnamurchan, we took the tide through the narrows at Kylerhea, then stopped off at Kyle of Lochalsh, before continuing north.     

      

We have just enough clearance to make it underneath the Skye Bridge safely!

Arriving at Raasay, we anchored off the island's south east coast for a visit to Hallaig - where the deserted ruins of this Highland Clearance site are still visible. The township was made famous in Sorley Maclean's poem "Hallaig" , which evokes the heartbreak and desolation of the Clearances.                                                                                                                                                                       

A cairn memorial to Sorley Maclean,  inscribed with a copy of the poem, in both Gaelic and English stands on the hillside below Hallaig. A submarine plying its way down the Inner Sound is just visible above the monument.    

                                         

More submarine activity in the Inner Sound

The island of Soay lies off the south west coast of Skye.  In 1946, the  author Gavin Maxwell bought the island and established a factory to process shark oil from basking sharks. The old buildings and machinery are still standing. The enterprise was unsuccessful and lasted just three years. Maxwell's book Harpoon at a Venture tells the story.

Soay - Gavin Maxwell's shark station

Shark station machinery, Soay

An overnight stop in Canna gave us the chance to explore ashore. Canna was left to the National Trust for Scotland by its previous owner the Gaelic scholar and folklorist John Lorne Campbell and is now run as a farm and conservation area. The island is a haven for birdlife, with golden eagles, sea eagles and puffins often seen.

On Rum, Moonshadow's guests enjoyed a tour of Kinloch Castle on Rum.  The castle was built as a private residence for Sir George Bullough a textile tycoon from Lancashire whose father bought the isle as his summer residence. Construction began in 1897, and was finished in 1900. The highlight of the tour was the under stairs Orchestrion, a mechanical music system which still functions today and amazed us with its melodic sounds!

 

Over the Sea to Scavaig

Moonshadow’s bow dipped and rose through a sun spangled sea as we crossed the Sound of Sleat under full sail.  We were heading for Loch Scavaig on the Isle of Skye and relishing a warm southerly breeze.

The night before had been spent in Inverie, Loch Nevis, where we met up with old friends and made some new as the crew was treated to the usual hospitality and musical entertainment at Britain’s remotest mainland pub the Old Forge Inn.

Sunshine on Loch Nevis

Pleasant memories of the previous evening lingered as the sea spray licked our skin making it salty to the taste. As we rounded the Point of Sleat, we eased our sheets and bore away. Over our shoulders the high hills of Rum and the sugar loaf Sgurr of Eigg shimmered in the distance.

The Black Cuillin

Approaching Scavaig, the dramatic horseshoe arc of the Cuillin skyline rose up to meet us and as we slipped past the resident seal colony we were close enough to hear their snorts and gaze into their mournful brown eyes.  

  

We were coming into the inner anchorage at the bottom of the tide, feeling our way round the bay. The water was crystal clear – and with only a few inches under the keel it looked too close for comfort – but the skipper had calculated correctly and the echo sounder soon inched its way upwards.

Hidden within this rugged landscape, and completely invisible to the outside world, is Loch Coruisk.   With dinner preparations underway, guests were ferried ashore to enjoy the short walk to this hidden jewel and rewarded with stunning views of the impressive rock strewn amphitheatre and a magical sense of peace and tranquility.  That night, under a star studded sky, a bright moon flooded the anchorage with light, casting eerie shadows over Moonshadow’s solitary mast.  

The following morning dawned bright and clear and following breakfast on deck in the warm sunshine, we weighed anchor, already anticipating the pleasures which lay ahead.

  

A Traditional Scottish Welcome

On a calm summer evening in July,  Moonshadow's guests had a real treat, when our friend Kyle delighted us with a few traditional tunes on his pipes. 

The hairs on the back of our necks rose as the strains of the Dark Isle echoed round the bay,  the historic Dunstaffnage Castle making the perfect backdrop for this haunting lilt.  

 
Toes started tapping as a selection of lively jigs and reels followed and sets of eight were formed for an impromptu Strip the Willow on the pontoons. 



 

This musical extravaganza drew rapturous applause and cries of "Encore" from Moonshadow's crew and other appreciative boatowners in the marina and we knew then that we were in for a long night!

Somebody fetch that piper a well-earned dram!

Riding the Grey Dogs

The VHF crackled into life: “Moonshadow, Moonshadow,  I’ve just looked at the pilot and I think we’ve timed it right to take a short cut through the Grey Dogs………what do you think, over”  

This was Mick, skipper of one of the 4 yachts we were sailing in company with.  We were enjoying a short sail from Loch Craignish to the Black Isles with a party of German guests.  The call sent a buzz of anticipation around the boat – how could we refuse the challenge.

The Grey Dogs, or Little Corryvreckan, lies between the islands of Scarba and Lunga. It is the smaller cousin of the Gulf of Corryvreckan, situated between Scarba and Jura. The tide runs at over 8 knots in both the Grey Dogs and Corryvreckan, however the Grey Dogs is much narrower, restricting a vessel’s room to maneouvre.  In adverse conditions 3 metre standing waves are a regular feature here – not for the faint hearted.

Then we’re at the entrance and hear a shout from the shore – “Straight down the middle!”  A ghillie, greallaching a stag high on the dark slopes of Scarba, has spotted our antics and encourages us with a hearty wave. 

The first 2 boats go through (they've done it before) and send instructions back over the VHF – “……keep to the left, there’s a big standing wave in the middle, but it’s not impossible…..”  The next boat makes short work of it and then Mick takes his turn.  We watch anxiously as his boat swings broadside to the channel – out of control – but eventually recovering to forge through to the other side.  “Don’t worry!” comes the call.  “That wasn’t as bad as it looks – my steering locked, but all ok now.  Enjoy the ride.”

Then it’s our turn. "Hold on tight!" shouts the skipper and 10 pairs of knuckles turn white as we surge into the foaming breakers, shooting past swirling whirlpools and white crashing waves. Moonshadow’s bow ploughs through the turbulent waters; we hold our breath, then whoop with delight at this rollercoaster of a ride.  All too soon, we’re out of it – the sea is peaceful once more.   

Over our shoulders we watch the final boat enter the fray - no holds barred they head staight for the standing wave - emerging unscathed and triumphant.  

As heart rates return to normal we exchange glances - feel exhilarated and energized.............................now, just how big was that wave?

The Merry Month of June

At anchor in Gometra Harbour

We had a mixed bag of weather this month, but enjoyed some very happy sailing and  lots of opportunities to get up close and personal with some our local Scottish wildlife.  Basking sharks were spotted at the entrance to Gometra Harbour and a walk ashore rewarded us with sightings of both golden and sea eagles.  From the same anchorage we had a birds eye view of the wild goats grazing on the Ulva slopes.   

On a calm evening, as we entered Loch Spelve, we were lucky enough to see otters  frolicking on the shores.

A pair of dolphins enjoyed riding our bow-wave as we ran with the tide down the Sound of Islay.

Basking sharks off Gometra

Herds of red deer were spotted 
on the hillsides of Jura.

Outer Hebrides & St Kilda

Glorious sunshine and settled conditions allowed a trip ashore to experience the magnificent birdlife on the Shiants. Then it was off through the Sound of Harris to land on Taransay  before heading out to St Kilda.  With the good weather holding we headed south taking in Barra and Mingulay, before heading back across the Sea of the Hebrides.

Shiant Isles

The Bothy, Taransay

Sound of Harris

There she blows!

Cleit, St Kilda

Village street, St Kilda

Museum, St Kilda

Village Bay

Old schoolhouse, St Kilda

St Kilda archipelago

Circumnavigating the stacs

Stac Lee

Boreray

Mingulay - spot our tender!

Sea cave - Mingulay

Mingulay cliffs

Castlebay from the top of Heaval

Castelbay, Barra

Castlebay from Kisimul Castle