A gentle north easterly breeze greets us as we leave Loch Leosavay on North Harris. We had enjoyed a peaceful night, anchored in the shadow of Amhuinnsuidhe Castle, which now stands proud against the magnificent backdrop of the high Harris hills and a cloudless blue sky.
Our destination is the Island of Scarp, lying seven miles up the Harris coast and uninhabited since 1971. Scarp is an Old Norse name for sharp, stony mountain terrain, a description which befits the 2,500 acre island whose highest point is more than 300m.
In sparkling seas, we slip past Taransay, location for the BBC show “Castaway 2000”, then rounding the point at Huishnish, we enter Caolas an Scarp. A hush falls over Moonshadow’s crew as we drink in the spectacular landscape before us: turquoise blue waters, dazzling white sands and a tangle of wildflowers on the machair.
Ashore, we stroll amongst Scarp’s ruined crofts, a number of which are now undergoing renovation, and weave our way through the shore-side graveyard with its views across the kyle to Traigh Mheilein on Harris. This beautiful stretch of beach beckons us next and socks & shoes are abandoned as we make our way through the white surf to enjoy the crystal clear waters and the warmth of the sand beneath our feet.
Scarp was also the site of an experiment by German inventor Gerhard Zucker to deliver the island's post by rocket mail. In July 1934 he made two attempts at firing mail between Scarp and Harris. Despite the success of the second launch of the solid fuel rocket (which could travel at over 1000mph carrying thousands of letters), the project was subsequently abandoned.
24 hours later and anchored off Edinbane in Loch Greshornish, we re-live our Scarp experience while a gale blows through. Moonshadow’s saloon is transformed into a cinema for the matinee showing of the “The Rocket Post” which celebrates this fascinating story in film and showcases an idyllic Hebridean isle.
