A gentle north easterly breeze greets us as we leave Loch Leosavay on North Harris. We had enjoyed a peaceful night, anchored in the shadow of Amhuinnsuidhe Castle, which now stands proud against the magnificent backdrop of the high Harris hills and a cloudless blue sky.
Our destination is the Island of Scarp, lying seven miles up the Harris coast and uninhabited since 1971. Scarp is an Old Norse name for sharp, stony mountain terrain, a description which befits the 2,500 acre island whose highest point is more than 300m.
In sparkling seas, we slip past Taransay, location for the BBC show “Castaway 2000”, then rounding the point at Huishnish, we enter Caolas an Scarp. A hush falls over Moonshadow’s crew as we drink in the spectacular landscape before us: turquoise blue waters, dazzling white sands and a tangle of wildflowers on the machair.
Ashore, we stroll amongst Scarp’s ruined crofts, a number of which are now undergoing renovation, and weave our way through the shore-side graveyard with its views across the kyle to Traigh Mheilein on Harris. This beautiful stretch of beach beckons us next and socks & shoes are abandoned as we make our way through the white surf to enjoy the crystal clear waters and the warmth of the sand beneath our feet.
Scarp was also the site of an experiment by German inventor Gerhard Zucker to deliver the island's post by rocket mail. In July 1934 he made two attempts at firing mail between Scarp and Harris. Despite the success of the second launch of the solid fuel rocket (which could travel at over 1000mph carrying thousands of letters), the project was subsequently abandoned.
24 hours later and anchored off Edinbane in Loch Greshornish, we re-live our Scarp experience while a gale blows through. Moonshadow’s saloon is transformed into a cinema for the matinee showing of the “The Rocket Post” which celebrates this fascinating story in film and showcases an idyllic Hebridean isle.
Saturday, 1 September 2012
Monday, 2 July 2012
A Helicopter on Hirta
Our visit in August coincided with the arrival of the helicopter bringing supplies to the island. After a walk ashore amongst the cleits, the warden very kindly opened the shop for us to make a few purchases. Then it was on to the museum to find out more of the island's fascinating story.
Sunday, 17 June 2012
Spar Cave 2012
Thursday, 14 June 2012
A Longship in Loch Ailort
It's amazing the things you find on the beaches of Scotland and we couldn't help but pose for a quick photo shoot on this wooden longship which we found nestling amongst the rocks on the shores of Loch Ailort. Anybody out there who can spread some light on what it was doing there?
Wednesday, 6 June 2012
Thursday, 31 May 2012
What's the Story in Tobermory?
..............a spot of shopping, a bit of potential property development (the public loos on the sea front are for sale!), rounded off by a wee drink in the Mishnish (and the Rev Colin I M Jolly's lunchtime sermon).
Monday, 28 May 2012
Idyllic Iona
Iona is the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland. St Columba sailed from his home in Ireland and arrived on the island in his coracle in 563AD. He founded the monastery that was to become the heart of the Scottish church in it's early years.
With a resident population of 125, the island is 3 miles long and a mile and a half wide and as well as being home to the medieval abbey and ruined ancient nunnery, it is the resting place of 48 Scottish Kings.
Sunday, 27 May 2012
The Garvellachs
Guests enjoyed a lunchtime stop at the Garvellachs, a chain of four small islands at the entrance to the Firth of Lorne.
Translating from the Gaelic as Isles of the Sea or "rough islands", Eileach an Naoimh (Isle of the Saints) is the most southerly of the group. The island is home to the remains of an ancient Celtic Monastery believed to have been founded by St Brendan the Navigator in 542 AD. Though ruinous, the bee hive corbelled stone cells are well preserved.
The islands are uninhabited, with steep angled sides and bountiful wild flowers nestle amongst the pink quartz and limestone boulders.
Translating from the Gaelic as Isles of the Sea or "rough islands", Eileach an Naoimh (Isle of the Saints) is the most southerly of the group. The island is home to the remains of an ancient Celtic Monastery believed to have been founded by St Brendan the Navigator in 542 AD. Though ruinous, the bee hive corbelled stone cells are well preserved.
The islands are uninhabited, with steep angled sides and bountiful wild flowers nestle amongst the pink quartz and limestone boulders.
St Columba's mother is said to be buried on the hillside overlooking the anchorage - a simple headstone marks her grave.
Summer arrives on the West Coast
Summer is finally here, with temperatures soaring to 28 degrees - hotter than Madrid, Nairobi and Rio de Janiero! So it was on with the shorts and t shirts to lap up some of the gorgeous sunshine we were enjoying.
The somewhat cooler water temperature did not deter our friend Richard, who had joined us aboard Moonshadow for the week, from continuing his swim training schedule. Richard likes a challenge and the latest adventure he is about to embark on is to travel from Edinburgh to Inverary, by kayaking, cycling, running over land, and swimming across both Loch Lomond and Loch Fyne.
Our first overnight anchorage on this trip was Lunga (one of the Slate Islands which lie south of Oban) and Richard had already planned the route for his morning swim. With a helping hand from the skipper to zip up his wetsuit he was off into the sparkling waters of Camas a Mhor-Fhir (Bay of the Giant) with the lure of a hot shower on the stern when he returned.
The somewhat cooler water temperature did not deter our friend Richard, who had joined us aboard Moonshadow for the week, from continuing his swim training schedule. Richard likes a challenge and the latest adventure he is about to embark on is to travel from Edinburgh to Inverary, by kayaking, cycling, running over land, and swimming across both Loch Lomond and Loch Fyne.
Our first overnight anchorage on this trip was Lunga (one of the Slate Islands which lie south of Oban) and Richard had already planned the route for his morning swim. With a helping hand from the skipper to zip up his wetsuit he was off into the sparkling waters of Camas a Mhor-Fhir (Bay of the Giant) with the lure of a hot shower on the stern when he returned.
Friday, 11 May 2012
Winter returns
Last night was spent in Loch a' Choire and it certainly lived up to it's name of "the cauldron" as we clocked up 22 miles on the anchor overnight! The good old Rocna held fast, however, and we had a peaceful night nevertheless. We woke this morning to snow on the hills.......this just isn't right for May!
Castle Stalker, Appin
Jets overhead
Snow capped peaks above Port Appin
Tanker waiting to berth at Glensanda
Thursday, 10 May 2012
Sunset over Loch Drumbuie
We were treated to a spectacular sunset in Loch Drumbuie this evening, with western skies a blaze of changing colours as the sun dipped below the horizon. Also known as Loch na Droma Buidhe or Loch of the Yellow Hill, the loch has a narrow entrance (Caolas nan Conn, Strait of the Dogs) which opens out to reveal the quiet all-weather anchorage.
Photo courtesy of W Newbury |
Photo courtesy of J Newbury |
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